Certainly by asking around, the Seahorse seems to have established itself as the leading restaurant in the town so it was with some anticipation we arrived a little early for our table (very dangerous this).  We were welcomed and shown to our table and given menus.  I had hardly started to assimilate the menu when we were offered a complimentary small glass of Prosecco and some water. 

Scallops

We decided the starters, Christine chose the carpaccio of octopus with tomato and new season olive oil and I had scallops roasted in their shell with garlic and white port which was really delicious.  After some considerable indecisiveness we both chose the monkfish grilled over the fire with fennel and rocket which was the most succulent and glorious monkfish that I have ever tasted.  In case there is any doubt I  loved it.  I broke from my normal habit of drinking red with everything and ordered a carafe of very young Albarino, a grape I really enjoy (Mar de Frades, 2012). 

Monkfish

For my favourite course, Christine chose Scroppino (a sorbet with Amaretto) and I had a chocolate pudding which was special. 

The Chef, Matt Prouse was present and cooking and I was pleased to say to him how much we had enjoyed the meal.  As I understand it he and Mitch Tonks are partners in The Seahorse.  On the basis of our meal they are more than deserving of the No 1 position in the town.  I wish them every success, we will visit again.

The Seahorse, 5 South Embankment, Dartmouth, TQ6 9BH

www.seahorserestaurant.co.uk

We had stopped for a light lunch in Totnes, it was grey and overcast when we arrived at Dartmouth, but it was dry.  We checked into our B & B and wandered into the town to check the restaurants and decide where we would have dinner.  One after the other were closed.  We found the Seahorse (also closed, but we had a booking for the Tuesday evening there).  In the end we went into the National Trust shop and found a gentleman who liked his food, we shared our problem with him – had we missed any? 

We hadn’t, in fact one or two that he mentioned, we had found but they were closed as well!  In the end he said, the hotel restaurants will be open.  I mentioned the Dart Marina and the Royal Castle and he said the meal would be good at both, but the ambiance was very different.  At that stage satisfied that we hadn’t missed anything we went for a cup of coffee at a little French Choclatier/Patisserie where we had a good cup of coffee with a French tart which was to die for. 

Afterwards it was brightening up and we decided to go and inspect the Dart Marina Hotel (and Restaurant) up by the higher ferry and on the way we found The Floating Bridge pub which was open but we wanted more than pub grub so we booked a table at the Royal Castle. During our search for crab we had come across The Crab Shell down one of the side streets just off the South Embankment.  It could only be described as a little ‘room in the wall’, it was spotlessly clean and sold not just crab but cockles, prawns etc as well, we logged it for the next day. 

The Crab Shell

What a find! We had been up to Dittisham on the little ferry in the morning (that’s another story) and we had returned on the one o’clock to have a light lunch, so the plan was a crab sandwich and a seat on the edge of the river to watch all the boat activity.  Executed perfectly.  The sandwich was made very expertly, wrapped in film like lightening.  At last we had found our fresh crab – delicious. 

Fresh Crab

In fact whilst watching the boats I heard several people remarking on the crab sandwiches.  So I went back and talked to her.   Judith Ewings has had the business for 11 years, she worked for the previous owner for 3 years before that.  She has a smiling personality, full of life and she makes a mean crab sandwich.  Rumour has it that the Dartmouth Ice Cream company is all part of the family, we tried the ice cream later – superb. 

The Crab Shell                                     The Dartmouth Ice Cream Company

1 Raleigh Street                                                The Good Intent

Dartmouth                                                        30 Lower Street

TQ6 9SG                                                        DartmouthTQ6 9AN

01803 839036                                                 01803 832157

                                                                        www.dartmouthicecream.com

The menu is a very personal issue we like it’s ‘Englishness’ and so for us it has lots that is a bit different from the norm.  Just look at these starters – all for £5.80 – £7.50 

• Celeriac and Bacon Soup
• Beetroot, Sorrel and Cow’s Curd
• Soft Roes on Toast
• Lamb’s Sweetbreads, Green Beans and Mint
• Cold Roast Forerib of Beef, Dandelion and Pickled Walnut
• Ham Hock, Kohlrabi and Radishes
• Smoked Sprats, Horseradish and New Pototoes

 And the mains: 

• Braised Ox Cheek and Carrots
• Guinea Fowl, Lentils and Wild Garlic
• Grilled Onglet, Chips and Aioli
• Smoked Hampshire Pork Chop and Swede
• Middlewhite Faggot and Mash
• Lemon Sole, Roast Cauliflower and Capers 
  

  Sweetbreads

I started with the Sweetbreads and followed with the Lemon Sole which was cooked perfectly on the bone.  I enjoyed the succulent flesh and the flavour which worked well with the roast Cauliflower and the small Capers.

Lemon Sole

 Christine had the Ham Hock and the Faggot both of which she thoroughly enjoyed. 

Ham Hock

When it came to puddings I, as usual, could not decline and true to form chose the Chocolate Mousse, with which the marmalade worked a treat (as well as the Crème Fraiche!) 

For me Hereford Road exhibits real imagination at sensible prices (my Lemon Sole was the most expensive main at £15.50) with good service and a flexible attitude.  Chris didn’t want mash with her faggot and they agreed to change it for swede.  Its very old fashioned to expect good service and a preparedness to change things, but it really is very satisfying when you find a place that is prepared to treat you as a customer. 

Hereford Road

3 Hereford Road

London W2 4AB

0207 727 1144

www.herefordroad.org

info@herefordroad.org

He explained that he had spent a year working in Madrid and last year in New Zealand, so when I told him we will be in New Zealand for a month later in the year, he was full of helpful advice and suggestions.  However, when he said he and his girlfriend had visited the north of North Island where they had spent two days in Kayaks, I felt he hadn’t noticed my greying hair!  Anyway we did get all sorts of tit bits of information which will be filed for later use.  I asked him about the future and discovered next year he is off to Japan– oh to be young again. 

We were offered water once we sat down, and with it came a bowl of juicy Spanish olives with a small bowl of oil and fresh rustic bread.  The daily menu was short but interesting and at two courses for £17 and three for £20, exceedingly realistic. 

Duck Livers

We both chose the duck livers to start, with sautéed onions and capers – very tasty.  Christine chose milhojas of Aubergine which included peppers, courgette, mushrooms and cherry tomatos, served with a romseco sauce. 

Milhojas of Aubergine

I chose a carafe of full bodied red from the Ribero del Duero which was young but very smooth.  My fish was perfectly cooked and the fennel worked well with the Hake. 

Hake with Fennel

I wasn’t intending to have a pudding but the ‘chocolate cake’ (more like a rich warm brownie) served with a light coffee sauce and cream was delicious. 

Jose also has a tapas operation at Number 104 as my ‘French Spaniard’ took time to explain.  We looked in as we passed it.  It really is an interesting area Bermondsey Street.  There is also a glass blowing studio which at present is showing work of Modern Masters, really stunning work some of it. 

Pizarro

194 Bermondsey Street

London SE1 3TQ

0207 378 9455

www.josepizarro.com

Jose

104 Bermondey Street

London SE1 3UB

They gave us two or three recommendations and one, Granger & Co we thought we knew.  On Tuesday we were in the area and sure enough it was packed, but it was well after 2pm and one or two people were leaving, we couldn’t resist it.  

Salad at Granger & Co

One of the staff found us a table, the menu was interesting.  We both chose salads, they looked fresh and very edible and a bit different judging by the ones arriving around us.  Christine chose the belly pork with watermelon and cashew and I chose the Shredded Chicken.  It was so full of flavour, fresh mint, coriander, mange tout, all provided excitement to my taste buds, the overwhelming sensation was of freshness. 

Shredded Chicken Salad

I decided to have a dessert, the pavlova with fresh strawberries and cream was quite large but luckily I was sharing it.  The staff were helpful and efficient, we shall return to try the more serious food next time.

Strawberry Pavlova

 Granger & Co

175 Westbourne Grove

London W11 2SB

0207 229 9111

www.grangerandco.com

nottinghill@grangerandco.com

Picasso 2

It tells the story of Picasso’s breakthrough year as an artist, he is only 19 years old! It reunites major works from his debut exhibition with Ambroise Vollard.  The second half of 1901 was when he changed direction quite radically to what became known as his Blue Period. 

Picasso

As with a lot of the activities we undertake, it happened largely by accident.  The man coming to repair the boiler was running ahead of schedule, we were in Church Street market just off the Edgeware Road when he rang.  Rapid change of plan, skip lunch back to Little Venice, all finished by 2.30, too late for both restaurants identified potentially for today.  We walked along beside the canal to the Paddington Basin, grabbed a sandwich from Prêt a Manger then took the tube to the Embankment.  The sun was out, growing in strength but the wind was bitter.  We decided to cut up through Somerset House and in the lift there was a poster advertising an exhibition in the East Wing Galleries (which we had never visited).  The poster featured a very dramatic photo of the Red River.  We had a peep and were hooked.  When we finally found the entrance, (we saw it all in reverse) it was about 5.25 and I said if we hurry we might just get in to the Picasso before they close – we did!.  Some weeks back we planned to visit the Picasso but were thwarted by the high demand.  It is truly amazing what Picasso achieved in his first 20 years.  Most reputable artists would be more than satisfied to achieve it in a lifetime. 

I left with a warm glow and a smile on my face and returned to the real world out through the arch to The Strand.  We consulted the bus maps at the stops, walked up Kingsway to Holborn turned into High Holburn and thus to Kimchee. 

The first thing that hits you is the size of it – a corner site going back a long way with lots of glass.  We are taken to our table (looks even bigger inside) and left with the menus.  Our waitress returns quite quickly and offers assistance.  She takes us through the different sections and explains that they don’t use the concept of courses.  The food arrives as it is ready because people like to share.  The only time I have eaten Korean food was way back on visits to Seoul in 1996 and 97, always with local colleagues, so the menu was a learning experience! 

Kimchee Selection

We ordered Kimchee, a spiced up portion of pickled cabbage, chicken and vegetable dumplings, soft shell crab in a crispy tempura, barbecued asparagus.  As “mains” Chris had a spicy seafood pot with rice, including calamari, prawn, mussels and squid with lots of vegetables

Seafood 'pot'

and I chose Lemon Sole on a bed of greens served with a sweet sauce and a variation on ‘Rosti’ potatoes.  

Lemon Sole

The place was buzzing, it was full and by the time we left at c.7.30 there was a queue at the door watching the chefs doing the barbecuing.  Can’t wait to widen my knowledge of the menu. 

Kimchee

Landmark: 14^th March – 28^th April 2013

The Fields of Photography

East Wing Galleries

Somerset House

London WC2R  1LA

www.somersethouse.org.uk

Becoming Picasso: Paris 1901: 14^th February – 26^th May 2013

The Courtauld Gallery

Somerset House

Strand

London WC2R  0RN

Kimchee Restaurant

71 High Holborn

LondonWC1V 6EA

0207 430 0956

hello@himchee.uk.com

New England Clam Chowder

We both started with New England Clam Chowder, it was rich just as I like it.  Christine followed with Haddock and Salmon Fishcake with Tomato chutney and Lemon Butter sauce from the day menu and I chose a second starter, the sauté of wild Mushroom with Watercress, Maderia cream sauce and a glorious Balsamic creation. 

Haddock & Salmon Fishcake

 All in all a wonderful light lunch in sunshine.  This will be on my list for the duration.

Wild Mushrooms

The Summerhouse

Opposite 60 Blomfield Road

LondonW9 2PA

t: 0207 2866752

e: info@thesummerhouse.co

www.thesummerhouse.co

It came in a cardboard container, in a brown paper carrier bag into which two pieces of hard bread had been deposited as well as a plastic knife and spoon wrapped in a ‘100% recycled’ paper napkin.  I have to admit there was nothing wrong with the soup (not half as flavourful as a homemade one) or the bread or the little packets of butter, but what a generation of rubbish when a china bowl and a metal spoon would just have to be washed!  A short term saving for the proprietor versus a long term loss for mankind. 

We put our carrier bag of rubbish in the bin and walked across the courtyard to go to the Gallery, through the glass doors to be met by a crowd of people and a gentleman saying that due to demand, tickets for the Picasso Exhibition were for sale on a timed basis.  It was now around 3pm and they were currently selling tickets for 4.30pm.  When he realised we were leaving he helpfully suggested that if we bought tickets on line we would be allowed in when we arrived.  We left Somerset House and caught a No 9 bus to Pall Mall to go to the RA to see the Manet.  We walked up through Angel Court to Kings Street  to where Christies are, wandered up Bury Street where there are several galleries including the Tryon.  Then past Chris Beetles and up Duke Street and into Fortnum and Mason.  This was not part of the plan!  It is at least four or five years since I had been in, just for the experience.  It was worth the visit as it turns out, some two or so years ago the food hall had been completely re-done, very impressive with an attractive wine bar adjacent to it and a rather grand staircase down to it.  The wine bar will be a subject for later.

 We did, eventually, escape to the Royal Academy, just across Piccadilly.  The Manet exhibition was interesting.  I will be intrigued to find out what the French critics say about it. 

I don’t think I can remember seeing an exhibition of this standing for an artist who was essentially a portraitist.  He was presented as having failed on many occasions, his exams to get into the Navy, his submissions to the Salon etc.  There was a very interesting calendar of the events of his life on one huge wall in one of the main galleries providing an insight to the man and his life, including the failures! 

A number of the portraits are very successful.   It is always intriguing to discover who actually painted some of the paintings you recognise but don’t always know whose it was (expressing my lack of knowledge), and there were also some not necessarily works that he would have wished to have included. 

Hence my interest in the French perception of the exhibition, was he a failure who made it in the end or did the RA fail to find sufficient work of quality?  I feel its something of a mystery.  Whilst he has trouble painting hands some of his faces are magnificent.  So we didn’t manage to see the Picasso but we did see the Manet.

After an hour or two’s R & R at the flat, our friends who live above us arrived and we set off for the Korean restaurant we were going to in Maida Vale.  It turned out to be closed (Monday) so we walked a little further and went to Maguro (Japanese). 

I don’t know very much about Japanese food.  We used to go to a quite small teppanyaki style restaurant in Barcelona, which was very close to our apartment building.  We have been to Kinchi in Hampstead recently which was totally different, as was Maguro, which majors on sushi but very different from what I’ve had before.  Our friends had been several times before and knew the ropes.  A bowl of salad and another of soup arrived for each couple.  That was followed by prawn and mixed vegetable dumplings, and chicken which were very tasty.  We then had four dishes which we shared.  Black Cod, Salmon and Avocado, Prawn and Avocado and spicy Scallop, all washed down with Sake.  I can’t wait to go again and experiment (and take the camera). 

Maguro

5 Lanark Place

Maida Vale

London

W9 1BT

t: 0207 289 4353

www.maguro-restaurant.com

I was late, then I realised I needed petrol, we were going to Southrop, it was a long time since we had been (before the change of ownership) and I had forgotten how to get there.  The Sat Nav solved the problem. 

Southrop looks a typical beautiful Cotswolds village, all soft coloured stone and dry stone walls, but there are signs of significant investment.  We were late (only 15 minutes) but I think they were pleased to see us.  On a grey Wednesday in February with the temperature just above freezing we were not exactly ‘killed in the rush’.  But the welcome was warm, as were the open fires, and a good number of tables occupied in the restaurant, as well as people in the bar. 

The menu was limited (sensibly) and had lots of interest.  For lunch it also offered a ‘Prix Fixe’ Two courses for £16 and 3 for £22 on a part of the menu very clearly identified.  In the final analysis we just ordered what we fancied, after all, that’s what it’s about. 

Devilled Kidneys

Two of us opted for two starters followed by a pudding.  The Devilled Kidneys were superb with the juice/sauce getting exceptional status.  I had the Artichoke soup with truffle oil which was very good, and the Gravadlax with Dill mustard dressing and pickled courgette, went down very well.  Christine enjoyed the Roast Guinea Foul with creamed leeks and curly kale. 

Roast Guinea Foul

 We had two lime possets  which were served with shortcake, naughty but very good. 

Lemon Posset with Shortcake

Finally we were rewarded with sunshine and by the time we left, the village had taken on the traditional Cotswold warm glow.  We returned via Fairford and the Air Balloon and in the sunlight the Gloucestershire countryside had started to look as if it was beginning to dry out.  

I will not leave it as long before going back to the Swan.

The Swan

Southrop

Gloucestershire

GL7 3NU

t: 01367 850205

www.theswanatsouthrop.co.uk